Shirvanshah Heritage Hotel

The most expensive stay inside the walls, and the one people write the longest reviews about. Fourteen rooms arranged around a covered atrium, each one different, all of them with the original carved stonework left exposed.

Service is the differentiator rather than the facilities. Staff learn your name on the first morning, the concierge books restaurants that do not answer the phone to guests, and the airport transfer is included in the rate rather than sold separately.

The roof restaurant is open to non-residents and books out at weekends — if you are staying, reserve your table when you check in, not on the night.